E cables...the battle

[KenAsh]

Hey Guys,

While going through this T5 conversion, I decided to replace those 45 year old emergency brake cables. So, I added them to my shopping list from the VA classsics. Well, I could kick myself a hundred times for not doing this while I had the car all apart for the restoration. I had to, basically, cut them out in sections using my bolt cutters. It took all I could muster to remove the section that goes through the body before entering the backing plates. The rubber insulator had frozen to the cable, which, in turn, was frozen to the body. It took a couple of hours, but, I did win the battle and replaced one cable!
So, good luck if you choose to wage this war.

[Oldstyl]

you should trade stories with Tim Rader (Tims65), he's had loads of fun with his e-brake!

[KenAsh]

you should trade stories with Tim Rader (Tims65), he's had loads of fun with his e-brake!

Hey Dave,

Yes, owning and working on these old cars do provide lots of "fodder" while sitting around at a car show, don't they?
The other side was not as tough, so, it's in. I didn't dismantle the brake shoes this time.
Imagine all of this, just to install a T5 and 3:55 rear. Those two alone, caused me not to have to go to the gym!
Ug!, I'm sore and now, getting achie working around under the dash.
But, me thinks, you know all about this!
Get a lot done this weekend. I'm hoping to back mine out of the garage???

[KenAsh]

Hey Dave,

Yes, owning and working on these old cars do provide lots of "fodder" while sitting around at a car show, don't they?
The other side was not as tough, so, it's in. I didn't dismantle the brake shoes this time.
Imagine all of this, just to install a T5 and 3:55 rear. Those two alone, caused me not to have to go to the gym!
Ug!, I'm sore and now, getting achie working around under the dash.
But, me thinks, you know all about this!
Get a lot done this weekend. I'm hoping to back mine out of the garage???

Hey folks,

I'm going to change out the cable that attaches to the handle and pulls on the equalizer bar. If this doesn't work, I have a foot operated unit coming from "LOKAR" that may work. IT may not be OEM but, it falls into the catagory of my "restomod' theme. It does appear, I may have to remove and or someway modify the driver's side fresh air supply outlet, as it looks like it'll be in the way. I will remove it, before I modify this OEM part.
Stay tuned!:D

[Oldstyl]

I was thinking about a pull handle e-brake from a late model....but gave up on the idea because I was tired of engineering everything....let me know how the lokar works...

[KenAsh]

I was thinking about a pull handle e-brake from a late model....but gave up on the idea because I was tired of engineering everything....let me know how the lokar works...

Hi Dave,

I received the foot operated unit yesterday. It's a very compact unit and looks like it will work. I will have to remove the vent duct, as it is directly in the way. Having that clutch pedal now, causes it to be placed closer to the side panel, and the vent directly in it's way. At this point I'm thinking, I will remove and store my OEM vent duct assy, and scrounge for a doner unit. I'll look at reducing the length of the doner unit, so as to keep the vent operational and in place above the mechanism. This is a guess at this point.
I couldn't agree more, it is another engineering job! Why do we pursue these crazy ideas? Is it the "challenge", and the "journey"?

Lokar does have a pull handle model, as well.
See: http://www.lokar.com/interior_pages/ebrakes.htm

I considered this, as well, but thought the foot would look a little more natural. I really like the tunnel pull handle style, but, then I'd have to modify the console and fabricate a bracket to support it, although, it is more in keeping with a "sporty" appearance.
To give my OEM pull handle a fighting chance, I've ordered the cable that goes from the handle down to the equalizer bar. With this, I will have all new cables in place, so, there should be no sticking or friction preventing the best possible tension on the shoes.
Another fix, would be going with rear discs. But, this adds a whole layer of additional costs and effort, as I would have to change out the M/C, remove the proportioning valve, and re-plumb at that connection.
$75, if I can get the OEM system working
$325, if the OEM doesn't work and I can install the LOKAR system...or
$$800, if none of the above and go with discs and built in e-brakes.
UGH! what a dilemma!
Enough on this. Next Wednesday, I'm going to a dyno session to see how my current junk is working.
I'll keep you posted.
What's happening in your sandbox?
:D